Oh What A Beautiful Morning

Derrick's shadow 1.13Throughout this week I have dipped into a collecton of the letters of A.S. Neill edited by his biographer Jonathon Croall.  Last night I finished them.  Not normally a reader of published private correspondence, which seems to me rather like prying, I read these for two reasons.  The first is the subject, the founder of the famous Summerhill School which he ran for fifty years.  The second, and most important, is how I came to acquire the book.  ‘All the Best, Neill’ was one of a number of books given to me by my old friend Don Eland, that had belonged to his late wife Ann, my even longer-standing friend.

Neill was a legendary figure in child care.  The letters offer a profound insight into the nature of the man and his beliefs.  Summerhill was a very successful residential educational community for children based on Neill’s belief in freedom to live.  He proved that this could aid the emotional and practical development of children from abusive or neglectful backgrounds.

Ann was also a charismatic figure who founded the Stepping Stone Community (see post of 10th. August 2012) with the object of equipping teenagers in care to make the transition into independent adult life.  It was natural for her to have studied Neill, and throughout my reading of the letters I thought of her and the work we shared.

Frosty, sunny Sigoules 1.13Sigoules awoke this morning to a truly ‘frosty fingered dawn’ with a crystal clear blue sky.  The sun’s rays gave the landscape tints of misty indigoes.  Once they found their way past buildings and through trees, they soon warmed us up a bit, but, even towards midday, ditches they had not been able to penetrate still harboured ice.

Frosty landscape 1.13I walked to Cuneges and back, enjoying every minute. Today’s title is a crib of the song from the classic 1955 musical Oklahoma!, celebrating such a day in another season on a different continent, but the sentiment is the same.  I will let the photographs speak for me.Cattle in frosty landscape 1.13Frosty Sigoules 1.13

As I approached Lestignac I was able to direct another French-speaking driver to Pomport.  If only my understanding of the spoken word could match the local people’s apparent ability to grasp what I am saying, I might be able to have more extensive conversations.  As it is, I am quite often at a loss as to how to interpret what is said to me.  This is quite embarrassing when I have opened the dialogue.  Mind you, the painful expression that occasionally came over the face of the helpful bank employee a couple of days ago reminded me of Madame Vachette.  The Vachettes were a kind of adoptive foster parents to Jessica, who was truly bilingual.  We sometimes visited them in Paris and Normandy thirty to forty years ago.  At mealtimes I was always given the place of honour at the right hand of this delightful woman who, like her husband, didn’t speak English.  That excruciating shadow flickering across her face often vied with an uncomprehending smile.  I would feel like Edward Heath, our Prime Minister from 1970 – 1974, whose execrable French accent was rather a joke.  My grasp of the written word, then as now, was far more comfortable.  I would help son-in-law Louis with the Paris Match cryptic crossword.  Sometimes I would decipher an answer which he said didn’t exist.  I felt very smug when I pressed him to consult the Petit Robert dictionary and there it was.  The one game of Scrabble I played with Jessica and Monsieur Vachette gave me an even greater satisfaction.  This kind and generous man told me I could play, on his French board, in English, whilst the others used the appropriate language.  My pride, especially once I had seen the different letter values, would not allow me to accept this.  Those magical creatures known, to my on-line Scrabble friends, as the ’tile fairies’ were kind to me that day.  I won.  I’m not sure I was ever forgiven.Cuneges 1.13

Frosted fencepost 1.13In Cuneges, the white paint on bare wooden fence poles turned out to be a coat of frost.

Maggie and Mike joined me for dinner this evening in Le Code Bar.  We ate tomato and noodle soup; omelette; roast duck; and profiteroles, all prepared to the usual standard.  So impressed was Maggie that she is going to publicise the venue in the tourist information bureau in Eymet.

The Tempest

13.6.12

My legs this morning took me to Cuneges and back, a feat my hip would not have allowed eighteen months ago.  This was a long, hilly, walk, and although the weather was cool and overcast I soon raised a sweat.  A couple of years ago I did part of this trip with Chris and Frances and Chris took a stunning landscape photograph of which I would have been proud.

On the approach to Lestignac I passed a bunch of bullocks which quickly lined up alongside their wire fence to watch me go by.  I still have a photograph, taken in Cumbria many years ago by my friend Ali, in which I am sitting with a book in the garden, completely oblivious of the string of similarly stationed cattle reading over my shoulders.

Cuneges, a village larger than some, does, I knew, have a bar, but it was closed, so for refreshment I had to make do with the occasional light rain.  It is home to a number of artisans, one of whom is a plumber whose services I was unfortunate enough to require at the very beginning of 2009.  In December 2008, just a week after completion of my purchase of No. 6 rue Saint Jacques, S.W.France was hit by the greatest storm in living memory.  The gales were even worse than those that buffeted the U.K. in October 1987.  The consequence was that Maggie had had to telephone me to tell me that my recently acquired house had been flooded.  The cellar was full of water and there were several inches of it in the ground floor.  Multiple disaster had struck.  The gales had thrust water under the French doors at the back, and the local underground stream had strayed into the cellar, completely filling it.  Because of a three day power cut across the entire region the auxiliary generator installed for just this eventuality failed to function.  The trapdoor into the cellar was swollen and had to be forced, breaking some of the tiles laid over it.  To make matters worse the inferior plastic piping distributing water throughout the house had sprung a leak and burst.  Now I have a copper system which cost a pretty penny.  Maggie and Mike had managed to get emergency help to pump the place out, and obviously I had to come over to organise repair work.  The house was freezing, damp, and full of soggy mats and plumbers.  I stayed with Maggie and Mike.

Le Code Bar lunch today was kuskus with a delicious ‘three meats’ stew followed by profiteroles accompanied by a glass of red wine.  After yesterday’s word play Frederick wanted to know if I was ‘satisfied this summer’.

The sun having slunk away for the day I consoled myself with Flaubert’s sublime prose and began Somerset Maugham’s ‘Catalina’.  As usual the skies cleared in the evening.

I watched ‘Frost/Nixon’, an electrifying film about the series of interviews of Richard Nixon (Frank Langella) by David Frost (Michael Sheen) directed by Ron Howard and based on the stage play by Peter Morgan.  Taking place in 1977 these led up to the final confrontation, perhaps the most devastating public political admission of my time.  This episode finally put paid to Nixon’s hopes of a return to any sort of office, and revived the career that Frost had apparently thrown away by risking all on the project.