Mare’s Tails

On the train yesterday, with Kenneth O. Morgan’s ‘The Twentieth Century’, I finished reading ‘The Oxford Illustrated History of Britain’ in the 1992 edition.  Ten university historians have each contributed a section in their particular field, from Roman times to 1991.  Written for the layperson it does neverless assume a certain amount of prior knowledge, the lack of which caused me to make some assumptions.  It is an excellent overview of 2,000 years of history, well written, and lavishly illustrated.  Each separate piece flows into the next, quite seamlessly.  It provided interesting revision for periods I know a bit about, and was informative about those I didn’t.

I must confess to having been relieved at getting to the end.  Not because the reading wasn’t pleasing, but because it will considerably lighten my bag on my train trips.  It is quite a big book, but its size was not the reason for its weight.  The illustrations are interspersed with the text.  This requires a heavy glossy paper throughout.  I much prefer it this way.  The alternative is to cluster the illustrations at two or three arbitrary places, so you are often perusing pictures the subject of which you have not yet encountered.

As we progressed through the second millennium the illustrations changed in nature and subject. Photographs of artefacts provided most of the early ones.  With the advent of the possibility of using a contemporary camera, people and events came into focus.  Written records enabled the writers to go further than when facilitated mostly by archeological finds.  From the eighteenth century onwards there was less of an emphasis on royalty and more on the politics of the people.  Given its publication date it was rather salutory to see the first fifty years of my life confined to history.

I enjoyed the book.  It was another that I had inherited from my late friend Ann.

Corfe Castle

A trip to Corfe Castle in Dorset continued the historical theme.  Certainly in situ during the time of King William I, it was said to be the scene of the assassination of King Edward in 978.  Described in the twelfth century as the most secure castle in England, it remained impregnable until, during the Civil War, Lady Bankes’s stout resistance to the Roundhead siege was ended by the treachery of one of her own soldiers who admitted Cromwell’s men during the night. Corfe Castle 3 It was then blown up by Captain Hughes’s sappers in 1646, leaving us with a dramatic skyline on a natural mound the outer perimeter of which has been eroded by the action of two rivers. From the National Trust car park Jackie andI followed a path along the site of the moat tracked by the Corfe River. Corfe Castle 2 Through gaps in the trees we could see the impressive remains that had survived the explosion.  Pieces of ‘tumble’, as were termed those stones falling down the hill, mingled with the residue still standing.

Corfe Castle valerianBridgeInside the castle, through the entrance and across the access bridge, we could see the remains of walls sprouting valerian and accommodating dog roses. Dog roses Jackdaws trotted about the ramparts, and buzzards circled overhead. Stocks Just past the gateway sat a pair of stocks.  I managed to climb most of the way to the top of the keep, which was scary.  There was an observation platform from which people looked down over the valley and the sloping sides of the mound.  Observation platformAlthough I did unwittingly actually reach the same level as that, I chickened out of turning the corner that would have led me to it.  Jackie, who had done this trip with her sisters at the weekend, had the good sense to sit on a bench and await my descent.

Corfe Castle in landscape

Venturing to look over almost any wall gave one a good, vertiginous, view of whatever lay beneath.

Houses beneath castle walls

Having had our fill of the ruins we wandered into the picturesque stone village of Corfe which is dominated by its castle.

Corfe & its castle

Mare's tailsOn the way home we took a diversion to Sway Road in Brockenhurst to look at the outside of a railway cottage we had seen on the internet.  The house and its neighbour shared a small private track accessed by a cattle grid.  This should have led us to expect the banks to be completely devoid of mares’ tails.  We were to be disappointed.  There was a widespread proliferation of the botanical version.  These are invasive deep-rooted weeds with fast growing underground stems that may penetrate as deep as 7 ft, and have been doing so since the time of the dinosaurs.  This pernicious plant is extremely difficult to eradicate.  Ground elder, which took me sixteen years to banish from Lindum House, is a pussy cat in comparison.Cottage by railway

After this investigation, we drove straight through Sway and carefully entered the car park of The Plough at Tiptoe, where we had wonderful meals.The Plough  Mine was a mixed grill cooked to perfection, with the steak medium rare as I had asked for, so large as to make it impossible for me to contemplate a sweet, and to earn me the admiration of the barmaid for actually finishing it. Mixed grill Jackie was equally impressed with her ham and mushroom tagliatelli and the creme brûlée she did manage to eat.  She drank Becks and I drank Doom Bar.

The Wilderness

Our last diversion was to Barton on Sea where we had a look at The Wilderness, another house from the internet. This was in a secluded position near Barton Common, but has been sold subject to contract.

A Walk With Paul

Dorset coastal walk 9.12 (2)

The other day Lynne had offered me her husband Paul as a walking partner.  ‘Paul walks’, she said, and she felt sure he would want to walk with me.  ‘But he won’t be up to your pace’, she added.  I thought that a bit strange, as she couldn’t have known what my pace was.  On Sunday evening Paul popped in to confirm our date.  ‘You are all right with hills?’, he asked.  ‘Yes’, I replied.  After all, I walk up and down Wimbledon Hill regularly.  The plan was that Paul would work out one of his favourite routes and off we would go.

When Paul called to collect me and we set off at 9.00 a.m., I arranged to go shopping with Jackie in the afternoon.  However, there is walking, and there is walking.  We were definitely on a walking trip.  As Paul drove off, I imagined that we would just take a short drive to the countryside, take a walk for an hour or two, and return with plenty of time for a shop.  That is what the women imagined too, as they waited until well past one for lunch.  I began to become a little concerned when I glanced at the in-car satnav and realised we were on our way to Dorset.  I thought that would make us a bit later than I had imagined.  I still didn’t realise where we were going.  The marvellous navigational tool took us directly from The Firs to a car park in Kimmeridge.  Paul changed into his walking boots and donned his backpack.  ‘I see you’ve come well prepared’, I observed, but it wasn’t until he extricated a pair of professional-looking walking sticks that I began to realise I might be in for a Ken Coleman experience (see post of 31st. August).  Trotting down into Kimmeridge we stopped for coffee.  This, explained Paul, was part of the tradition shared with his friend Dave with whom he has a monthly walk.  Then out came the Pathfinder Walks book.  This is a guide to country walks throughout England.  Paul showed me the chosen route.  It was the 8 1/2 miles Kimmeridge Bay and Swyre Head circuit.  This looked uncomfortably close to the coastline for my liking.

Anyone who has read the Vertigo post of 14th. July, will realise that anything too close to the edge would not be very comfortable for me.  In fact Elizabeth and I had been on a landscape photography course a year or so back, and I had been unable to walk down to Lulworth Cove, having to settle for taking pictures of inland scenes.  My sister had been happy to walk down a series of steps I found just too scary.  So, when I discovered that the first long section of our walk comprised part of the Dorset Coastal Path, I was a little disconcerted.  This meant footpaths with barbed wire fences on our left, and the sea on our right.  I did wonder at one point what would be my chances if I had to grab hold of the fence.  Even more difficult were two very steep upward climbs which soon had me panting away.  Indeed, I couldn’t manage the second one without a rest.  I have to say that Paul, who has no head for heights himself, was an excellent calming influence, and I found the stick he had suggested I try, was a great help in balancing me and helping me ensure that there was something firm between me and the cliff edge.

Once we had got beyond this rather frightening part of the journey we made our way inland and looked down on Edcombe dairy and Edcombe house, which is apparently quite an ancient pile.  Later we were able to see these from the other side of the valley in which it is set, with the ridge along which we had walked in the background.

It was with some relief that we reached the Scots Arms in Kingston and had two pints of well-earned ale for me and cider for Paul.  From the garden we enjoyed an impressive, if hazy, view of Corfe Castle.

Paul was excellent company, and we shared a wonderful day.  Having had to make several phone calls putting our return home later and later, I managed not to completely spoil Jackie’s roast chicken dinner, for which I was certainly ready. Since I was pretty dehydrated, I needed sparkling water with my share of the Carta Roja 2005.  Jackie didn’t need any with her Hoegaarden.